Sunday, October 18, 2015

The lure of the Caribbean

March 19th 2015
Position 18° 17.246’ N
                65° 38.016’ W

I haven't written for a long time so I will try and catch up!

February 10th - March 10th. We spent a wonderful month in Florida although the cold weather for the first two weeks was a shock. It was unseasonably cold and a few records were broken with the cold temperatures. We survived nevertheless and enjoyed seeing friends and family. We stayed at our good friends John and Carol's home...they were to be away with a group of other volunteers for a while in Honduras where they provide help to orphaned children, just a wonderful cause. John is a Rotarian and it is through this organization that the trips are arranged. They make furniture for the school and orphanage, repair things and generally provide some services that the local people either lack the skills for or cannot afford to provide. While they were away we looked after their standard, 6 month old, poodle and another of the party's four year old black Labrador. We have not had a dog before and this was an experience. Quickly the two canines accepted us and the two weeks were fine, in fact we were exercised daily by the dogs who took us for walks (as apposed to us taking them)! In spite of the daily walks I still gained a few pounds due to the kindness of good friends inviting us to dinner! We had a great time and it was so good seeing and catching up with friends here in Sarasota, friends that draw us back and enable us to still call Sarasota 'Home'. Our medical visits were all successful and without event so that was a relief! These good results will enable us to continue living our dream for at least another year. It is a good feeling to have our health checked and to receive a good report. We have never been away from 'Partners' for this length of time before and are missing her. Today is the 1st of March and we are beginning to pack our stuff ready for our return. We are still awaiting the package from Naiad with all the necessary parts to service our stabilizers and to install the automatic pinning device. I know it is on it's way and weighs 23lbs! Lavinia, of course, has been buying some essential items that we have to have, you men out there know what I mean, right? As a result we have bought another suitcase to accommodate the extra things we have bought, I just hope that it is big enough!

It is the 6th March and we said our goodbyes to FOJ and Carol, their unbelievable kindness and hospitality has first, made our long visit possible and second, so enjoyable. They opened their home to us, truly as if it was our own...a huge thank you both!
Night time view 34 floors up!
The Atlantic Ocean from orbit!

We spent the last few days of our visit in Miami seeing my youngest daughter Georgina. She lives on the beach on the 34th floor of a condo! The view is outstanding, just breathtaking! We had fun, experiencing the hustle bustle of Ft. Lauderdale and Miami but had experienced enough after four days and were glad to board the plane!

Arriving back in Puerto Rico we spent our first four days provisioning for our cruising season. Puerto Rico, like the United States, has Costco's and all the retail facilities that provide everything one could possibly want. Our provisioning really consists of buying things like toilet paper, paper towels, cleaning product and dry foods such as rice, pasta, cereal also canned goods like soups, chicken breast, tuna etc., we try to shop frequently in the islands for the daily fresh vegetables, meat and dairy products. We either bake our own bread or buy it locally. The canned goods enable us to remain in an out of the way location if we choose and not have to worry about food. Our canned and dried provisions can 'stretch' our ability to stay away from civilization if we want or need to. It is also easier to stock up with such items as oil and filters for Mr. White and Stonewall Jackson. We carry an over supply of 2 micron fuel filter for our fuel polishing system and Racor fuel filters and maintain a good stock of impellers and engine belts as well.
'Partners' in Fajardo, PR at Sunbay Marina.
Picture by Brian Smillie, m/v 'Gotta Smile'

As we cruise Lavinia and I frequently talk about where we would like to cruise next... We talk about the east coast of the United States, up to Maine and as far north as Newfoundland. We have a hankering to see the San Blas Islands and Cartagena, Columbia, from where we can explore a little of the South American interior. There is also Central America, so many much as we talk about leaving the eastern Caribbean we are still here! The lure of the islands is strong and I am sure that many cruisers have experienced the same feelings and decisions or indecision's as we face. We are still here in the eastern Caribbean and enjoying ourselves and have decided to stay for another year or two. The Eastern Caribbean is unique in so much as it has so many different island nations, close enough to 'island hop' easily between them. It is exciting having different countries and islands to visit and choose from. Around the world there are plenty of countries that have many islands but they are all the same country with the same culture. In the Eastern Caribbean there is so much diversity.

Our next stop when we leave Sunbay Marina will be Puerto del Rey Marina some 4 nm south where we will be hauled out in order to have our stabilizers serviced. The through-hull seals should be replaced every three years and it is time, we are also going to replace the hydraulic rams, one of which has bad internal seals. The item I am most excited about is the Centre Locking Device. When we are at rest the fins require pinning so that they don't move and bang when the boat rolls. The job is a pain in the neck and requires me to crawl into very hard to get to places to manually put the pins into place. The Centre Locking Device performs this procedure automatically and I can't wait, it will be a real treat to have it.

Arriving back in San Juan we met up with Sue and Rich Klumb, Sue and Rich spend most of their cruising lives in and around Culebra and the Spanish Virgins. They just happened to be traveling to and returning from Florida on the same days as us so we shared a rental car from San Juan airport to Fajardo where we had left 'Partners'. They keep their sailing boat 'Orion' in Culebra and caught a ferry which took them the 16 miles or so across to Culebra. We were so happy to find 'Partners' all in one piece with all systems working just fine. We kept the rental car for another four days in order to do the necessary provisioning shopping and to drive back into San Juan to shop for two chairs for our aft deck to replace the two that we stolen in St. Lucia. We found some! Two beautiful teak reclining chairs. With all the provisioning completed we returned the rental car and prepared 'Partners' for the short journey south to Puerto del Rey. On March 16th we said our goodbye's to Olga and her crew at Sunbay and set off.

Puerto del Rey is a 1,000 slip marina and is huge! Our assigned slip was on the periphery of the marina, golf carts are used to transport the boat owners around and one calls on the VHF radio to request a ride and in no time the cart arrives. In the slip next to ours was 'Bodacious' a 39' Kadey Krogen; we knew of the boat but had not met them. There are only a few Krogen trawlers in the Caribbean so when we see one another it is a big deal! Our meeting was brief as on the morning of the 17th we proceeded round to the travel lift bay and were lifted out and transported to our place right outside the workshop where the company who would be servicing and working on our stabilizers was located. Bob, the owner, welcomed us and started work immediately. Unfortunately we had to remove our washer and dryer to allow access to the starboard stabilizer so right from the start the boat was a mess. We kept telling ourselves that in three days we would be all back together and steaming East to St. Thomas. Everything went according to plan and Bob and his crew performed our work flawlessly. Fuel at the fuel dock was $2.70 for a US gallon so we filled up and took on 355 gallons which filled us up. On the 20th we left and arrived in St. Thomas just before dark.

Nelsons Dockyard
Enjoying tea at Nelsons Dockyard
with Bill & Ann
Nelsons Dockyard
A beautifully preserved cannon on the ramparts
of Fort Berkley
St. Thomas, USVI is a duty free port so we usually stock up with alcohol here as it is far less expensive than anywhere else that we know. After waiting a few days for a suitable weather window we set off for a nonstop passage to Antigua where we would be meeting up with our great friends Bill and Ann Miller on 'Ann Louise', their Kadey Krogen 58', who were already there. They made the journey from Culebra while we were in Florida. Many other friends were there too for 'Classic' and 'Sailing Week', two of the biggest events on the Caribbeans annual cruising calendar. What a fabulous month we had there, participating in as many of the events as we could and joining in with the parties and social mayhem that ensues during these two busy weeks. Both before and after Classic and Sailing Week we
Fort Berkeley

The dinghy concert from the top of
'Alegro's' mast, picture courtesy of
Lee Demarist 
'Partners' hosted a dinghy concert while in
Antigua featuring 'White Chocolate' aka
our friends Dave and Trudie

cruised the island and did a circumnavigation. Antigua is an island that has many beautiful bays and beaches to explore most with great holding for anchoring. We could have stayed for a long time but broke ourselves away to cruise south to Les Saintes for a short stop before another passage south to Martinique where we would linger to get as large a dose of 'France' as we could.

Sainte Anne
Sainte Anne
A sad event took place in Les Saintes just before we arrived; Friends Bill and Ann had cruised 'Ann Louise' ahead of us there and whilst mooring to one of the balls in the harbour Ann inadvertently allowed a mooring line to wrap itself around her left leg, the boat pulled away from the mooring ball and the fouled line ripped into the calf muscle on Ann's left leg. Very fortunately a Doctor just happened to be on the adjacent boat and quickly came to assist. The loss of blood was extreme and immediately a helicopter was called for and Ann was lifted to Pointe a Pitre, the capital of Guadeloupe where emergency surgery was performed to save her leg. Very fortunately the medical team were successful. Once stable Ann and Bill were medevaced to Atlanta, GA where she would be further treated at both Emery and Grady hospitals. Sadly her recovery is likely to take a year. 'Ann Louise' has been taken back to Stuart, FL by a professional crew where she will stay until, we hope, Bill and Ann are fit to cruise again and return to the eastern Caribbean.

On the island of Martinique we like to go to the south eastern corner and stay in Sainte Anne and Le Marin. The marine services in Le Marin are great and the shopping is good too. In Sainte Anne there is the beach and it provides peace and quiet...the town is small, really a village, there are a few restaurant's and bars, there is a market, church and pharmacy, so the essentials. The water in the well protected bay is clear, the bottom is sand which makes for good, easy and safe anchoring. Le Marin on the other hand is a larger town with most things a cruiser needs, many boat services, great grocery shopping and good restaurant's abound. We love being here and always stop for our 'fix', the boulangeries are superb and the cheeses are to die for...vive le France!

Suitably sated our next passage would be a direct one to Bequia missing St. Lucia, Dominica and St. Vincent this time. Bequia is an island belonging to St. Vincent and the Grenadines (SVG) and is the first island south of St. Vincent. We arrived here in the middle of June along with many of our cruising friends who, like us, have cruised south for the hurricane season. Bequia a one of those island which appeal to almost all cruisers and few pass it by. For a small island it caters well to cruisers with chandlery's a good canvas/sail maker shop, diesel mechanics, refrigeration technicians not to mention restaurants and a friendly local population. We spent a week here this year and managed to squeeze in two beach BBQ's a pizza night at Mac's plus some socializing both on 'Partners' and us being invited on board other friends boats in the anchorage.

Soon it was time to head farther south...hurricane season was on its way and we need to seek the lower latitudes. This year we had made the decision to continue to cruise rather than sit at anchor in the southern bays of Grenada or a slip at Crews Inn Marina in Trinidad, at least for part of the hurricane season. Our plan was to cruise the Grenadines; the Grenadines are the islands that make up the country of Saint Vincent and stretch to the northern shore of Grenada. Petite Martinique and Carriacou plus a few very small islands are the exceptions and at the southern end of the chain and belong to Grenada, all however are known as the Grenadines. We made passage directly to Carriacou from Bequia which is a day cruise. Carriacou is a good base to cruise the Grenadines from and is again a day cruise to the southern bays of Grenada which our insurance company considers a safe hurricane season location. With improvements in the accuracy of weather forecasting we receive pretty good 4-5 days warnings of foul weather, tropical storm development plus the normal wind and sea condition advisories. So, in the event of a serious weather event being forecast we can 'run' south and be in a safe location and be fully covered by our insurance policy in the event of a claim.

What we did throughout the summer, July through the end of September, was to make sorties north from Carriacou exploring Union Island, Mayreau and the Tobago Cays. Our first destination was Petite St. Vincent a small private island just to the NE of Carriacou. There we spent two days and explored using our dinghy. Very close by is a small island, really a sand spit named Mopion. Originally it, apparently, was named Morpion but due to the locals inability to pronounce Morpion it became Mopion.
Mopion Island
Anyway, Mopion has an palm frond umbrella on it and is considered a favourite place to propose to ones love! We carefully found our way across the reef which protects it and pulled the dinghy up on to the beautiful sand. On the north side of the island the reef forms a lagoon creating a natural swimming pool. We languished there for a few hours enjoying this quintessential deserted tropical island paradise, a wonderful day. From there we visited Union Island where we cleared in to Saint Vincent and the Grenadines. Union Island has improved since we first visited two years ago and the town of Clifton is neat and tidy with welcoming friendly people. We completed the customs and immigration process quickly and left immediately for a short passage round to Chatham bay. Chatham Bay is on the West facing coast of Union Island and is dramatic, tall hills surround the whole bay, there is no Internet or phone service here it is isolated. There are a few beach shacks and a bar but that is all. We swam in the clear water and stayed one peaceful night before heading east towards the Tobago Cays.
The Tobago Cays
The Tobago Cays

The Tobago Cays are a national park and charge a EC$10 per person daily admission. The Cays have much marine life including turtles and hundreds of colourful fish. The water is beautiful with visibility close to 100' We traveled from Carriacou with our good friends Les and Veronika on their sailing vessel 'Golightly', the two of us were the only boats there. During the cruising season at least 50 boats are usually in the park so this solitude was amazing, we spent four days just enjoying our surroundings, exploring the five islands that make up the Cays in our dinghy's. We walked the beaches and snorkeled the reefs; we were living the Robinson Crusoe life. The whole park is protected bay an enormous horseshoe reef to it's east which ensures safe anchorage in all sea conditions (not hurricanes!). We were achieving our goal of cruising at a time when most boats were further south, the Grenadines were deserted! From the Cays we sailed to Mayreau and explored the islands bays and the town, a very steep walk as it is on top of the hill which is the island! The islanders are welcoming, they are interested in cruisers and we struck up many conversations, the walk is worth it! The view of the Cays and reefs from the church yard is outstanding. Saline Bay and Saltwhistle are the two anchorages, Saline the less commercialized and with a beautiful deserted beach.
Saline Bay

Saltwhistle Bay
Saltwhistle is another quintessential Caribbean scene. We spent three weeks on our mini 'vacation' then returned to Carriacou. Many boats spend hurricane season in Carricaou and it has become our 'favourite' southern hang-out during the summer. Late in September we repeated our excursion to the Grenadines and enjoyed the Cays again and also visited another out-of-the-way bay called Anse Le Roche. Anse La Roche is a small bay on the NW coast of Carriacou which is a fair weather anchorage as it can suffer from swells which make life uncomfortable. Again this is a deserted spot and when we visited only one other boat was anchored there.
Anse La Roche
Anse La Roche

Baby Turtles
The holding is good in sand and there are rocks and reef to explore. It really is a getaway spot to recharge ones batteries after, what can been, a hectic social scene in Carriacou. During our summer travels we saw many 'firsts'...we had not seen many sharks while we
Baby Tiger Shark
have been in the eastern Caribbean, in the Tobago Cays we did see a baby Tiger shark and also whilst sitting on a deserted beach on one of the Islands in the Tobago Cays
witnessed the hatching of a Leatherback turtle nest. One of the most moving events we have ever seen. We had the best Summer!

At the end of September we made passage to Grenada and anchored in Woburn Bay where we waited for a weather window to leave for Trinidad where we had a reservation for the month of October. While in Grenada we were able to invite friends Kaaren and Mike from 'Nauti Dog' along with Dave from Seas the Moment (Becky, Dave's wife was visiting UK and sadly we missed her) for a dinner party...good times! Luckily the weather cooperated and we had an uneventful trip to Chaguaramas, Trinidad. We had flights booked on the 5th October to fly to Miami. Both of us wanted to re-position some of our required doctors visits so they did not continue to fall in the middle of the cruising season. All went well including an unplanned dental appointment for a toothache that to fix ended up requiring a crown, $$$ ouch! While we were away in Florida Dynamite marine overhauled our toilet and holding tank system, installing a new discharge pump leaving us with a fully operational old one as a spare. They cleaned all the calcium and other build ups that occur in the holding tank and hoses, a job that we consider preventative maintenance and recommend doing every five years whether it is needed or not! In Florida we were able to meet up with all but one of our six children and six of our eight!
Dinner with the daughter and granddaughters

It took some luck and serious driving. When we landed in Miami we where able to meet up with my two daughters, the eldest had flown in from Norway where she lives with her two eldest children, two of my granddaughters. We had dinner together and also breakfast before we drove to Sarasota. The following weekend we drove to Jacksonville where my eldest son Anthony, who has just bought a new house, entertained us, his two sisters and younger brother plus his wife and two children made the trip, again wow! As all cruising parents and grandparents know it is tough getting a family gathering together. So, we had four children and four grandchildren under one roof...we had a fabulous time. A huge thanks to Anthony for pulling it all off. We ended our visit by attending my young grandson Matthew's football game.
My son Chris's youngest Matthew.

Jax beach
Daughters and Granddaughters

I am writing this as we prepare to fly back to Trinidad on the 19th October. We have our annual haul-out scheduled for November 2nd when we will apply new anti-fouling bottom paint ready for our 2016 season. We will provision and refuel at the good Trinidadian prices before heading north to our first stop in Martinique...

Again this year a group of us will be making tracks to Antigua for another, we hope, great Christmas Holiday.

Present Location:- Chaguaramas, Trinidad and Tobago  10° 40.741’ N   61° 37.961’ W

Wednesday, February 18, 2015

Heading North for Christmas

February 18th 2015

Position 17° 01.078’ N
               61° 46.370’ W

This map shows where we spent the Christmas Holidays.

Partners at Peake's

After our haul-out we were able to go back to Crews Inn for a few days. Our friends Steve and Ann on s/v ‘Receta’ had retained a slip there but were on the hard for a few days having their engine transmission repaired so kindly let us use their slip. These two days enabled us to check over all the systems, get a few last minute provisions before embarking on a non-stop 238nm passage to Le Marin, Martinique. Our plan was to stop only briefly in Martinique to buy some of those ‘hard to do without’ French food items and, of course, some French wine! We wanted to arrive in Antigua, where we had planned to spend the Christmas Holidays, in plenty of time to get into the festive spirit ready for the holidays. The plan worked! Another good weather window presented itself and off we went, it was Thanksgiving Day Nov 27th. All our friends had planned to have a pot luck Thanksgiving dinner but unfortunately the weather window took priority, it is difficult, in the winter months, to find a three day window to make a long passage. The only recurring ‘event’ we experienced during the passage had us stopping several times to remove the Sargasso weed which had collected in clumps on our stabilizer fins. The weed this year was particularly bad and ‘fields’ of it were everywhere. We had to stop the boat and reverse so the weed would float off the fins. We arrived in Antigua in plenty of time to anchor at Jolly Harbour, say hi to our friends Gail and Eric on m/v ‘Vikings Dream’ and Rick and Susan on m/v 'Just Cause
Our breakfast companion.
Looking for scraps!
’ who were already there and then proceed on to clear in at Customs and Immigration. We finished in good time for us to return to the anchorage and enjoy sundowners with Eric and Gail before turning in for an uninterrupted night’s sleep. The next day s/v ‘Aeeshah’ showed up with our good friends John and Jen Howarth on
board…guess what? Another good night was had by all.

Within a few days we all headed round to Falmouth Harbour where we anchored and became quickly dazzled by the glitz of the many Super Yachts that were there. Without exaggeration 30 must have occupied the marinas! Several of them were in the 300’ range and two were more, Le Grande Bleu at 371’ was the largest. The amazing thing here was that she had a 70’ sailing boat cradled on her port side aft deck! More

friends arrived, Les on s/v ‘Golightly’, Ron and Jackie on s/v ‘Desperado’, Rob and Rhian on s/v ‘Beyzano’ and Gavin and Mandy on s/v ‘Secret Smile’ all in all we totalled 18. We reserved a large table at ‘Life on the Corner’, a nice restaurant where we would all gather for Christmas Dinner. Leading up to Christmas there were cocktail get-togethers on every boat, the standout to me was John and Jen’s rum punch…a knock out, not a pun, it was! We had the best Christmas, carol singing on m/v ‘Vikings Dream’ with Eric on guitar and Gavin on sax and clarinet, fabulous evenings onboard each of our boats enjoying snacks and libations. Rob and Rhian invited us to a champagne/mimosa reception on-board Beyzano Christmas morning which was a     

Some of the beautiful super yachts we saw in Antigua.
great start to the day. At lunch time our gang visited Nelsons Dockyard for the traditional and famed champagne reception. It is a charity event hosted by the Dockyard every year and everyone was there. What a festive gathering and a perfect event to get everyone in the mood for our wonderful traditional English style Christmas Dinner at ‘Life on the Corner’ that evening, a superb dinner it was and topped off, what for us, was a memorable Christmas Holiday! We managed to cram in some
s/v Aeeshah
sightseeing too visiting Nelsons Dockyard several times and an evening at Shirley Heights. We loved Antigua and will return for an extended stay in April for the ‘Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta’.

On Boxing Day we left Antigua and all our friends to make passage for St. Thomas, USVI. We had a good trip without event, 33 hours later we arrived safely without ado. We were quickly reminded of the fact that St, Thomas is the place to stock up with booze, boy is it cheap! We anchored in the bay at Charlotte Amalie, the capital. We found out later that we had anchored right where the barge which was going to be used for the New Year’s Eve firework display was to be placed so were asked to move. We relocated to a different part of the bay close to friends Rick and Susan on m/v ‘Just Cause’. We spent several days socializing with them and had a good time. After cruising to Francis Bay on St. John, visiting Waterlemon Cay and seeing Janice and Steve on-board s/v ‘Sailacious’ we cruised back to St. Thomas and visited Christmas Cove at Great St. James island for a couple of nights. Christmas Cove has a Pizza boat owned and operated by a young couple from the States. Of course we sampled the pizza, it was good! We also met friends Rene and Stacey from s/v ‘Pipe Muh Bligh’ back in Charlotte Amalie and shared some time together watching the US Football playoffs in Hooters! Stacey is from Seattle so she was supporting the Seahawks who won! We had a great time and some ‘hot’ wings!  

Having spent a couple of weeks cruising the USVI’s we departed for Culebra where we would await the arrival of our good friends Bill and Ann on m/v ‘Ann Louise’ their 58’ Kadey Krogen. They arrived on the 25th January after a non-stop 1,000 nm trip from Stuart, FL. We had not seen them for near enough a year and a happy reunion ensued. Linda and Jim, Bills Uncle and Aunt were on board for the trip and what a super couple they were, the six of us had fun catching up and celebrating their successful trip. Rhian and Rob arrived soon after and joined the throng. Lavinia, who is known to like a game of dominos, was pleased to hear a suggestion from Rhian that we get together for a game. We had a great time with them and after dominos ended up enjoying a chili diner on Partners. Culebra is another favourite small island, it is perfect for cruisers with a couple of handy dinghy docks and all the shops one needs…a few bars, two small but well stocked grocery stores and a bakery, what more does one need. We spent two weeks anchored behind the reef at Dakity. It is our favourite spot, clear swimming water a great view directly out to sea looking over the reef, an unobstructed cooling breeze and flat calm water.  

We had reserved a berth in SunBay Marina, Fajardo, PR for the 6th February ready for our flight to Florida on the 10th. It is time for a ‘Medical Servicing’ visit, purely routine and we hope all will go well so we can be ‘cleared’ to cruise for another year or two… 
Hello Bill & Ann! m/v Ann Louise entering Ensenada Honda,
Culebra, PR


More when we return from Florida and begin our cruising back to Antigua for ‘Classic’ in April.

Here are few more pictures ....

The Pizza Boat in Christmas Cove,
St. Thomas

No shortage of Bloody Mary's to celebrate m/v 'Ann Louise'
with Bill & Ann on board.

This is what fish & chips looks like in the Caribbean!

HT gets really happy from time to time!

Thursday, November 27, 2014

Our Passage South 2014

June 20th 2014

Position 14° 26.357’ N
               60° 52.899’ W

View Larger Map

Every time we get ready to make passage it is a bitter sweet affair, we are leaving the safety of a port which we have become familiar with and are heading out into the unknown again so there is the excitement too which is always experienced and associated with going to sea! Les Saintes are a special part of the Caribbean, small islands, civilized and sophisticated. Part of Guadeloupe, the small collection of islands are situated just to the south. They are west of Marie Galante, the other bigger island belonging to Guadeloupe, and north of the next island to the south which is Dominica. Our stays here are always pleasant and provide a break from the more underdeveloped islands and the more blatant and desperate behaviours demonstrated in their people’s quest to both survive and develop. I refer, for example, to the boat boys of Union Island and St. Lucia’s Pitons Bay at Soufriere who are aggressive in their quest for your business, they almost fight among themselves in order to gain the right to assist one to pick up a mooring.  

This young cruiser woke up to his dinghy sinking so he
quickly swam ashore towing it to the beach! 
A change also from the commerce of the British Virgin Islands where a mooring ball will cost you US$35 per night, this is not to mention the compulsory necessity to buy another parks permit to allow the use of the daytime moorings at the must-see venues, expensive! The French islands are inexpensive to visit although many commodities are a little more expensive…but, oh the food! We look forward to visiting every island and enjoy all their unique experiences; don’t misunderstand me we are not deterred from visiting any of the islands because of the poverty we encounter or because of boat boy behaviour, once the tussle between them is over and we have our assigned ‘boy’ everything calms down and we are fine. On Union Island we were harassed ashore by an individual who insisted on disposing of our garbage and then had to introduce us to his Aunt who ran a local fruit and vegetable stall and then a friend who ran the local rum shop and on it went, we couldn’t deter him from following us everywhere and found it very unpleasant.

From our mooring - Les Saintes
Ann & Steve from s/v Receta
in Les Saintes
In the bay where the mooring field is situated the water is deep, 40’ or more but a beautiful deep blue. We swam daily from the stern of the boat. Of course one does have to witness the daily nude displays from the French sailors while they either just take their daily swim or perform their evening bath routine! The island of Terre-de-Haut, the main island of the group, is hilly but not to challenging to be walked. We did explore and visited some of the recommended spots. Les Saintes are a tranquil destination and we find it easy to relax here and enjoy the ‘flavours’ of France. The people seem to have time for you and are friendly towards cruisers and tourists. Martinique and Guadeloupe on the other hand are bustling large islands with much more of a feeling akin to mainland France. Don’t misunderstand me we love the bigger islands too, I am just explaining the differences. As cruisers we need all the islands, each one offers a different set of services ranging from good provisioning and sophisticated marine services on the larger islands to locally grown non GMO vegetables from a small roadside grocery store and eggs from the free range chickens which we find on the smaller less populated islands.  The locally grown food reminds us of a time when the quality of food was better. The bright yellow yoked eggs instead of the milky white tasteless ones that dominate the shelves in most large supermarkets nowadays are like the ones our mothers used to get when we were children. The smaller islands give us a ‘getaway’, a relaxing aura where we can walk deserted beaches, snorkel in coves and on reefs where we are the only people. At happy hour we can visit the local watering hole, where we invariably see familiar faces from what is really a small cruising community. The proprietors in most of the establishments make time to talk and remember our names from the last time we were there, six months before…   

Slipping the mooring lines we left Les Saintes and headed south toward the western lee side of Dominica. Again we are not stopping in Dominica. We are told that Dominica is the poorest but most spectacular island in the West Indies, it is nature’s wonderland. We are told too that the people are special and the most ‘generous’, not materially but in their attitude and demeanour, just wonderful people. We will visit, maybe next year… 

A green flash in a about minute!
Our next stop is Le Marin, Martinique where we will stock up with great French provisions at Leader Price our favourite grocery store in the Caribbean! Not only is the food good but the selection is wonderful too; the wine shelves offer a good and inexpensive choice. Leader Price has a dinghy dock which makes the whole experience easy, no buses or long walks with arms being pulled out of their sockets, just cart to dinghy and dinghy to boat, perfect! Our course south will take us along the west coast of Dominica which is a mountainous island and thus offers considerable lee. We will enjoy this for about 4 to 4½ hours when we usually use the time to cook and eat a meal, filter fuel and refill our day tank, not because we have to but it is just easier in the calm lee waters. At night, especially if a moon is shining brightly, one can see the silhouette of the tall mountains towering skyward, it seems we are much closer to the land than we are, all a little eerie but nonetheless spectacular. In the channel between Dominica and Martinique the equatorial current is fierce and is running in a northerly direction so we can take up to 5 hours to cover the 21 miles between the two islands. Once behind Martinique again we are in calmer waters until we round the ‘corner’ at the southern end of the island and head windward for the last 9nm to the channel leading into the protected enclosed harbour of Le Marin. Le Marin is at the SE corner of Martinique and is protected well by a large spit of land extending southward for about 3 miles. The area of protected water in the bay is huge and there are many places to anchor. We usually start off close to Leader Price and then once our shopping is done move to a more remote location within the harbour or we cruise a few miles to Sainte-Anne where the water is so clear and there is a beautiful sandy beach. Le Marin is still accessible from Sainte-Anne in JP our fast dinghy and takes about 20 minutes. Le Marin also has every tradesman one might need and all seem very qualified. Having had a repair done here on a previous visit highlighted to me that sometimes it is better to pay a higher price and have the job done right first time and in half the time rather than have the job attempted by a lesser qualified person who is unpunctual and may or may not do the job correctly; often the case on many islands. The difference in cost at the end of the day is minimal. One doesn’t have to chase the workman either, he is usually there when and at what time he says! Surprise! After two years here in the Caribbean we are leaning and have a good handle on which islands are good for what. We even long for individual locations on certain islands where we can buy great locally baked bread!  

Sainte-Anne is a small quiet town, more a village actually, it is touristy and has all the little shops that sell trinkets and souvenirs. It is a popular cruisers haunt and is blessed with a great dinghy dock, a beautiful beach and a selection of small restaurants. We always make water here as the water is so clean and clear. Once we have negotiated the reefs that are between the main Le Marin channel and Sainte-Anne one can anchor in 8’ – 18’ of ‘swimming’ water! We usually choose to anchor near the beach which offers a lot of wind protection. Most of the sailing boats especially those that have wind generators anchor further out where there is more wind but the water is a little choppier. One can clear in now in Sainte-Anne, one of the local bar restaurants is now authorized and has the familiar computer in place. The cost here is 2EU’s compared to the 5 charged by the marina in Le Marin. The French islands cater well to cruisers and welcome us everywhere.

During our visit to Le Marin we made a reservation in the very nice marina to meet with the Victron Energy distributor, who we know; Frédéric Moser came on-board to look over the new wiring we had done in BVI’s and also to re-programme our Victron inverter/charger so it could work to its full capability, remember we had thus far only been able to charge at a reduced rate of 80 amps rather than the full 120 amps which it is capable of. We also had Frédéric install a Victron monitoring gauge so we can see exactly what is happening with our electrical system. Finally six months after the installation of our new inverter we have everything working properly! I cannot describe the wonderful feeling that having reliability in the electrical department provides…we are relaxed not worried about our generator breaking down, not always being required to check the temperature of the wiring, worrying about fire! We have a freedom now that you would’ve had to experience our previous problems in order to appreciate.   

Cruising past the Pitons
St. Lucia, the next island south, is our next stop. Our plan is to spend a short time in Rodney Bay and wait for a good weather window to make passage to Bequia, one of the Grenadines, where friends, who we haven’t seen in a while, are anchored. In Rodney Bay we met up with Bruce on ‘Wild Matilda’ and Dave and Trudie on ‘Persephone’. We only spent a few days here but unfortunately during those few days we were robbed one night! Two nice folding teak chairs were taken from our aft deck. Another boat in the anchorage fared worse than us and were boarded and lost money, credit cards and passports.
Passing a beautiful yacht on a beautiful day.
St. Lucia, sadly, is now the leading island for this type of crime. The island authorities are stepping up security in the hope of curbing the crime. We, along with other cruisers, are hoping that there will be an improvement as currently we are reluctant to visit. From St. Lucia we passaged overnight to Bequia, another small island that we like. We first visited Bequia 20 years ago when we were married on Young Island, St. Vincent. The island has changed little and the same laundry boat and other waterborne vendors were present. The island is quaint, there is a stone and concrete walking path along the waterfront which connects shops, watering holes and restaurants. A choice of beaches abound. Les on ‘Golightly’ was there and Dave, Trudie and Bruce followed us down from St. Lucia. We also met two French cruisers Sylvie & Rene. We all had a get-together one evening at the Whaleboner for cocktails with pizza afterwards at Macs which was a fun time.


Friend John's boat 'Stingo'
By now it is July and hurricane season is upon us, it is time to head further south once more…our next stop is Mayreau a small island that is the gathering place for exploring the Tobago Keys, one of the most beautiful areas in the eastern Caribbean. We only stayed in Mayreau for one night but did go ashore with Les from ‘Golightly’ and met some great people, South Africans from Cape Town. They, along with their two grown-up children, had taken a sabbatical from their lives in SA in order to cruise the eastern Caribbean for a year. We became friends and have stayed in touch ever since. We have just learned that they are planning on returning in three years to resume their eastern Caribbean cruising!

One of the beaches we visited every
day to swim in Bequia.
From Mayreau we continued on to Carriacou an island just north of Grenada and part of the Grenadian archipelago. Carriacou, as I have probably mentioned before, is definitely one of our favourite islands. Tyrell Bay, where we choose to stay, is a superb anchorage, it is calm with nice clear water for water making and swimming. Around the bay are bars, restaurants three small grocery stores. One can buy free range eggs, chickens and locally grown vegetables. We feel healthy here and have grown to love this place. We know some locals, some ‘Belongers’ as they are referred to, and feel safe here. There is no crime that we have heard of and we can leave ‘Partners’ unlocked most of the time. Many of our closer friends spend time here and the local bars are always patronized by familiar faces…Ms Lucky’s on a Saturday night is the place to be, a small restaurant where Ms. Lucky barbeques chicken, pork and potato wedges for a mere EC$12 or US$4.50 and the beer is cheap and ice cold.

'Partners' our trusty steed.

Our trip from St. Lucia to Mayreau and on to Carriacou was uneventful. The weather at this time of the year provides longer periods of calm seas which make it easier for us to go to sea.

Always hard to leave, Carriacou yet again has provided our fix for relaxed quiet island living. Grenada was 6 hours south, we headed out accompanied by our friend Les, to where we would spend three months until our final trek south to Trinidad where we would be hauled out for bottom paint and some other minor jobs. We have had an expensive year this year what with a new generator, radar and new battery and inverter/charger wiring, so to anchor in Grenada as opposed to berthing in a marina will give us an inexpensive summer to replenish the cruising coffers.  

Carriacou 'Fun Runner'.

Our Bengy Bay anchor buddy,
friend Terry on Libertad

A female Frigate bird.

A typical Carriacou scene.
Arriving in Grenada we entered Prickly Bay where we cleared in and were granted a three month stay. After a day of rolling badly we moved east round to Clarkes Court Bay and Bengy Bay where we like to anchor. Our good friend Terry on board s/v Libertad anchored next to us and we spent the next three months swimming, fishing and having fun in the bay. Of course we explored parts of Grenada that we hadn’t seen before. We had a good time, dinghy concerts, BBQ’s on the beach at Rogers on Hog Island and weekly music jams at Whisper Cove Marina. Grenada is a fun island with plenty going on! 

Crews Inn Marina, Chaguaramas,
Trinidad and Tobago

Your truly!
At the beginning of October we sailed south to Trinidad. We had made a reservation in Crews Inn for just three weeks before our haul-out at Peake Yachting Services on the 5th November so we were looking forward to some shopping in town and some soaking in the marina pool. We quickly discovered who was here and reunited with many other cruising friends. We spent time with Chuck and Barb on ‘Tusen Takk II’, another Kadey Krogen, enjoying several get-togethers and meals together. Chuck and Barb have been cruising the Eastern Caribbean for 8 years and are a wealth of knowledge. They introduced us to their friends Michael and Roberta on s/v Celilo’ and we enjoyed several outings including two ‘dinner and a movie’ excursions. Trinidad has it all, malls, restaurants galore, everything, it is like a mini America. Our haul-out went well and we left Peake’s on the 25th November after three weeks on the hard...